Annapurna Circuit - part 2

Although the trail led to Manang (3540m) I decided to finish the day in the quieter and picturesque village of Bragha / Bhraka (3470m).
 

What to do around Bragha...

On the way to Buddhist Monastery above Munchi

On the way to the Ice Lake

The alpine biome found between the river bed where Bragha (3540m) is found and up to the Ice Lake (4600m) is a tough place for plants to live. It’s windy, cold, and the sunlight at these high altitudes is very strong. Because of the harsh weather, most plants are small groundcover plants, which grow and reproduce slowly. When plants die the cold weather
makes it hard for them to decompose quickly reducing available nutrients for new growing plants...
 
Anyhow, my observation is that trampling and overgrazing by the numerous yaks and wood fuel used by shepherds is leaving a permanent footprint. Hopefully, the demand for yak jerky and cheese will not increase unreasonably in the near future, and as a result further deteriorating this fragile environment...
 

What is left of the vegetation on the way to the Ice Lake

Yakidiyak

Awakening of Manang

Difficult to get lost!

With the Pisang Peak Base Camp (4000m) and the Ice Lake (4600m) under my belt I felt acclimatized enough to set for Thorung La pass (5416m). From Bragha I hiked to the Thorung High Camp for the night. Another great day with very little traffic but nonetheless some interesting action.
 
Below the High Camp was a steep and slippery section of old frozen snow. Two porters ahead of me were desperately trying to haul a mountain bike wearing city shoes. For a few
seconds, the image of two young boys holding an expensive bike, and flying by me crossed my mind. This would certainly be the deadliest tobogganing of their life! I rapidly made my
way through the knee deep soft snow and grabbed the first boy by the wrist. I hauled both of them all the way to the High Camp.
 
I am aware that hiring porters and/or guides without intermediate might sound more profitable for both parties but I do wounder who ends up paying for the injured when incapable of working and/or the family when death occurs?

The following day was quite chaotic. It felt like climbing the Mont Blanc on the busiest European holiday! At least the suffering (waiting behind the endless queues) was not to long, and soon enough, I was enjoying the sun over the pass.
 

The proof that I made it!

 From Thorung La pass 1600m of steep descent to Muktinath (3800m) awaits every single trekker. The views are absolutely incredible!

Muktinath is both a dusty, far-west-like village, and an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus alike. They come from all over India using the Naya Pul to Jomsom road or by flying to the Jomsom airport.
 

One bell per wish

 

View from Jhong village – on the way to Kagbeni (2840m)

From Kagbeni one can head towards the Mustang area or south towards Jomsom. The airport and road portion of Jomsom is also a major trail junction for routes to the Dhaulagiri and Dolpo regions. Let's be honest, Jomsom is not nice but hikers can find everything they need here.
 

Looking at the Mustang entry from Kagbeni

Towards Jomsom and Naya Pul

If time and energy remain, the trek from Jomsom to Naya Pul via the new trail settled up by ACAP (to avoid the road) is simply spectacular. Every single village has is own charm. The western-like environment transforms itself into luxurious and diverse vegetation, temperature rises and food prices drop.

 

Trekkers reaching Tatopani can take the time to recover while soaking in the nice Hot Springs. Further south, the Poon Hill sunset is also a must do. Simply set your alarm clock one hour before sunset and follow the crowds. 

The journey only finishes when back in Pockara after embarking a public bus in Naya Pul. Few hours later one can enjoy a nice diner at the Lake side Pokhara...

THE END ;)

Annapurna Circuit - part 1

I have been pretty much motionless since early 2013 after spending 2 months in the hospital and later on, damaging my knee LCL. Good news is, the Conservation Project I was involved with happen to be a good continuity in order to regain my mobility. Living and hiking above 2000m on a daily-base throughout the project was definitively beneficial for my legs and mind to regain some strength. Therefore, I could envision exploring or, at least, get a taste of those appealing mountains surrounding Ghandruk.

I set the achievable goal of completing the Annapurna Circuit trek, and therefore get a better look at those beautiful mountains. This trek is accessible to all as it doesn't require any technical skills and trekkers can find food and/or lodging on trek every hour or two. This circuit remains affordable compare to other treks; only the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) Single Entry and Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS) permits (2 x 20 USD) are required for this trek. I managed to pay 100 NRP / night for a room with attached toilet and shower although for food it is another story as prices increase proportionally with altitude.

Annapurna Circuit Map

This is definitely a must do!

From Pokhara one can already enjoy the sight of Annapurna I (8091m) and Machhapuchhare (Fish Tail Peak, 6997m). Although to the north of the massive bulk of the Annapurna is a valley system that leads to Tibet through the villages of Naar and Phu as well as the Mustang region. Unfortunately, the Tourism Bureau would not provide me with a permit for these two areas without a group and guide... 

Tal to Tilicho Lake Map

These two trekking areas have been added to my to do list.

 

I highly suggest to take the local bus to immerse oneself into local's folklore (leaving any security consideration behind). Public bus in Nepal are cheaper than food and pretty entertaining. So after my share of cultural immersion between Pokhara and Besisahar, I started my trek from Ngadi (about 1h bus ride north from Besisahar) without much

expectations and with limited time.

After overcoming the choc of the impressive dam and adjacent road (by and for the Chinese) in the middle of this semi wilderness, I quickly fund myself hiking throughout luxurious vegetation, terraces and villages.

The trail follows the east bank of the Marsyangdi Khola (river) from this point.

Colorful & welcoming Chamche's Guesthouse

While engaging into this journey, one can indulge unique fauna and flora but also witness the day-to-day life-style of the communities occupying the region.

Little adorable friends in Ghermu

Passing by a school between Germu to Tal; 
these kids will do anything do get something out of you! :)

What I find the most interesting is the never ending variety of landscapes. From luxurious forest to arid tundra, through hanging bridges and well-maintained trails, by Hindu Temples

and Buddhist Stupas and prayer wheels....

One of the many suspension bridges...

I believe this one is color blind!

Shepherd at work ;)

Prayer wheels

While appreciating every moment of my journey, I could however capture some environmental threats and/or consequences of this Eco-touristic practice in the region. An important portion of the forest cover is no more due to, what looks like, forest fire and intense logging I believe for the construction of hotel/housing accommodations, and fuel wood for cooking and heating.
 

Making of wooden boards

Eco-friendly transportation of wooden boards – just kidding ;)

And again, the journey continues with more breathtaking views and surprising findings. In Bhratang trekkers can satisfy their sweet craving with apple pie or fresh apples as Gala and Red delicious where introduced about 50 yrs ago. I also learned from the owner that the current orchards were about to be replaced by a new variety from Holland in order to increase both apple size and productivity. 

Fascinating!
 

Cross-generational exchanges

 

Time to get up in Chame for another great hiking day!

Past Bhratang the trail climbs to Timang and then continues through a section of gorgeous pine and fir forest. Further up, Lower and Upper Pisang (3310 m) are found on both banks of the Marsyangdi Khola in a much more arid environment.

Lower & Upper Pisang from the Pisang Peak Base Camp (4000m)

 
From Pisang it is definitely worth the effort of hiking what they call the high route (north of the Marsyangdi Khola). The mountain views on the on the upper trail via Ghyaru and Ngawal (3660m) are breathtaking and this effort also pays in terms of acclimatisation.
 

To provide kids with coloring crayons rather than sweets or money is, in my opinion, a good idea.

 

Prayer Wheels

Simply magical!

 

AROUND THE KATHMANDU VALLEY – Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur also named Bhadgaon (old name) or Khwopa (Newari name) is one of the best preserved medieval city-states in the Katmandu Valley, and also a great destination to escape Kathmandu craziness by bike, taxi, bus or minibus.
 

Located on the old trade route from India to Tibet, many of the city's most iconic buildings date from the rule of King Yaksha Malla (1428-82). The city suffered major damages during the 1934 earthquake but locals were able to restore an important part of it, and the 1500 NPR tourists entry fee is supposed to go into protecting and maintaining the temples. I also find out the Bhaktapur's streets were paved and restored in the 1970's by the Germanfounded Bhaktapur Development Project, which also established proper sewage and waste-water management facilities.

One can find anything on the back streets

I really enjoyed taking the time to walk around as there is so much details into each temples, and the city's atmosphere is pretty laid back.
 

Potter's Square with women separating rice in the background

Live pottery making!

View from the rooftop of my hotel