Annapurna Circuit - part 1

I have been pretty much motionless since early 2013 after spending 2 months in the hospital and later on, damaging my knee LCL. Good news is, the Conservation Project I was involved with happen to be a good continuity in order to regain my mobility. Living and hiking above 2000m on a daily-base throughout the project was definitively beneficial for my legs and mind to regain some strength. Therefore, I could envision exploring or, at least, get a taste of those appealing mountains surrounding Ghandruk.

I set the achievable goal of completing the Annapurna Circuit trek, and therefore get a better look at those beautiful mountains. This trek is accessible to all as it doesn't require any technical skills and trekkers can find food and/or lodging on trek every hour or two. This circuit remains affordable compare to other treks; only the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) Single Entry and Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS) permits (2 x 20 USD) are required for this trek. I managed to pay 100 NRP / night for a room with attached toilet and shower although for food it is another story as prices increase proportionally with altitude.

Annapurna Circuit Map

This is definitely a must do!

From Pokhara one can already enjoy the sight of Annapurna I (8091m) and Machhapuchhare (Fish Tail Peak, 6997m). Although to the north of the massive bulk of the Annapurna is a valley system that leads to Tibet through the villages of Naar and Phu as well as the Mustang region. Unfortunately, the Tourism Bureau would not provide me with a permit for these two areas without a group and guide... 

Tal to Tilicho Lake Map

These two trekking areas have been added to my to do list.

 

I highly suggest to take the local bus to immerse oneself into local's folklore (leaving any security consideration behind). Public bus in Nepal are cheaper than food and pretty entertaining. So after my share of cultural immersion between Pokhara and Besisahar, I started my trek from Ngadi (about 1h bus ride north from Besisahar) without much

expectations and with limited time.

After overcoming the choc of the impressive dam and adjacent road (by and for the Chinese) in the middle of this semi wilderness, I quickly fund myself hiking throughout luxurious vegetation, terraces and villages.

The trail follows the east bank of the Marsyangdi Khola (river) from this point.

Colorful & welcoming Chamche's Guesthouse

While engaging into this journey, one can indulge unique fauna and flora but also witness the day-to-day life-style of the communities occupying the region.

Little adorable friends in Ghermu

Passing by a school between Germu to Tal; 
these kids will do anything do get something out of you! :)

What I find the most interesting is the never ending variety of landscapes. From luxurious forest to arid tundra, through hanging bridges and well-maintained trails, by Hindu Temples

and Buddhist Stupas and prayer wheels....

One of the many suspension bridges...

I believe this one is color blind!

Shepherd at work ;)

Prayer wheels

While appreciating every moment of my journey, I could however capture some environmental threats and/or consequences of this Eco-touristic practice in the region. An important portion of the forest cover is no more due to, what looks like, forest fire and intense logging I believe for the construction of hotel/housing accommodations, and fuel wood for cooking and heating.
 

Making of wooden boards

Eco-friendly transportation of wooden boards – just kidding ;)

And again, the journey continues with more breathtaking views and surprising findings. In Bhratang trekkers can satisfy their sweet craving with apple pie or fresh apples as Gala and Red delicious where introduced about 50 yrs ago. I also learned from the owner that the current orchards were about to be replaced by a new variety from Holland in order to increase both apple size and productivity. 

Fascinating!
 

Cross-generational exchanges

 

Time to get up in Chame for another great hiking day!

Past Bhratang the trail climbs to Timang and then continues through a section of gorgeous pine and fir forest. Further up, Lower and Upper Pisang (3310 m) are found on both banks of the Marsyangdi Khola in a much more arid environment.

Lower & Upper Pisang from the Pisang Peak Base Camp (4000m)

 
From Pisang it is definitely worth the effort of hiking what they call the high route (north of the Marsyangdi Khola). The mountain views on the on the upper trail via Ghyaru and Ngawal (3660m) are breathtaking and this effort also pays in terms of acclimatisation.
 

To provide kids with coloring crayons rather than sweets or money is, in my opinion, a good idea.

 

Prayer Wheels

Simply magical!

 

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek

Don't miss the sign to the Annapurna Base Camp

So five motivated volunteers and myself decided to head to the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC: 4130 m) for a bit of exploration. We left Ghandruk Thursday (Oct. 23) after breakfast with the objective to reach the ABC and return by Sunday.

Five motivated volunteers, myself & the sunrise over the ABC

It took us 4h to reach Chhomrong (2170 m) from our Ghandruk Guest House (2100 m). After traversing the old Ghandruk, an endless stone staircase surrounded by rice and millet paddies took us first all the way down to the Kimrong Khola (river) where a suspension bridge allowed us to reach the opposite side.

Old Ghandruk

Suspension Bridge over the Kimrong Khola

Naturally, what goes down generally goes up again! We then climbed another staircase up to Kimrong (1800 m), Taulung (2180 m) and Chhomrong. After lunch, we made it to Bamboo (2310 m) in 3.5h. Once more, the trail drops down a set of stone steps to the Chhomrong Khola, and then climbs to Sinuwa and on through rhododendron forests although not in flowers at the time, to Kuldi (2470 m) and finally to Bamboo (2310 m) where we spent the night.

Beautiful scenery from Sinuwa looking at Ghandruk

 

Lucky we were to see some Hanuman Langur throughout the luxurious forest

Friday morning, we hiked from Bamboo (2310 m) to Deurali (3230 m) in 2 1/4h passing through Doban (2540 m) and Himalaya (2840 m).

Sure enough, no one ate meat....

Although there were no sight of snow, we passed several avalanche chutes on the way. After a quick bite, and another hour of hiking we reached the Machhapuchhare Base Camp (3700 m) just before the clouds. This mountain is sacred and therefore it is not permitted to climb it.

Machhapuchhare Base Camp 3700 m

We set the alarm clock for 4 am on the following day in order to witness the sunrise illuminating the magnificent amphitheatre of rock and ice surrounding the South Annapurna Base Camp (ABC 4130 m). It took us about an hour to reach the moraine past the ABC.

Temperatures were low and the sight of snow made feel at home for a moment ;)

 

Approaching ABC before sunrise

Sunrise on the Annapurna Base Camp

Once the day took over the sunrise, we headed back to our MBC Hotel ate breakfast and started our descent to Ghandruk. We took 3h to reach Bamboo and 1h to reach Chhomrong where we spent the night. Sunday morning we hiked the last 3 1/4h to Ghandruk early enough to be on time for our 11h lunch at our Guest House.

 

This (minus the crowds), I like!

Traditions - part 2

Ghandruk is divided into sections within each a Misrom Bareh Temple can be fund.

Inside of the Temple

View from outside the Temple

The story says that one orphan was once upon a time adopted by gods. After living with them for a while, he returned to Earth to continue his life. Although, the gods advise him not to talk and/or get close to woman as he would looses all his powers. One day, he obviously did not resist the temptation and fell in love. They married and the man lost all his powers. 

This is why in each of these temples women are not allowed inside...

Gate to the Tea Garden

This Temple overlooks a beautiful Tea Garden which provide kalho ciyah (black tea) for locals and a beautiful scenery for hikers....

Tea plantation overlooking old Ghandruk

Indigenous flowers

Pokhara to Ghandruk

Saturday Oct. 4th 2014

Time to leave Kathmandu jahnu (to go) to Pokhara. An early 6h30 am start + 7h bus ride later we arrived in Pokhara. 

As soon as the bus started climbing the hills surrounding the city, nature's green and endless terracing replaced the densely populated and extremely polluted Kathmandu.

Bus stop

One of the many suspension bridges on the road

Once more, very little time to explore this city as we arrived pretty late and needed to get organized for yet, another early start the next day for our final destination: Ghandruk.

Pokhara lake

Sunday Oct 5th 2014

Around  7 am we trade the comfort of the Middlepath Hotel in Pokhara for a Jeep ride taking us closer to our destination. About 40 km separates Pokhara (820 m) from a location named Birethanti (1025 m).

This is a well travelled and colorful road. A mix of both locals, tourists buses and Jeeps play a cacophony of klaxons and game of who is passing who... pretty interesting...

Trail from Birethanti to Kilu

Trail from Birethanti to Kilu

Birethanti is also the checking point for the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) permits required to use the trail up to Ghandruk.

From Birethanti (1025 m) our chaffeur drive us another 8-10 km "off road" to the village of Kilu (1400 m). 

Village of Kilu

At this point, our bhariyah (porters) meet with us to load themselves with our bags. I do know the feeling of carrying a 20-30 kg backpack as I have done it myself and therefore, I can only admire their strength when observing these little boys/men and girls hiking up under such loads waring not much than flip-flops...

 

Young female bhariyah (porter) & local woman

Other porters...

Some photos on route to Ghandruk... simply sundar (beautiful)!

Also on the trail, one of the swing built for the Dashain Festival...

We were warmly welcome late afternoon in our Ghandruk  Pahhunahghar Guesthouse (2100 m) with our well deserved camenah (lunch)...

NTNC - ACAP

The girls and myself at the entrance of Ghandruk