Nepal volunteering project – the end

Still processing everything I experienced and learned throughout my stay in Nepal and simultaneously, realizing how time flies!

First of all, I would like to thank all the fantastic people I had the chance to cross path and exchange with while in Nepal. I always felt safe even when travelling alone and always found help when in need. Directly related to the project, I need to outline the resourcefulness and good spirit of our Project Coordinator, Raj.

Our Project Coordinator, Raj

Raj seems to be involved with pretty much every single aspect of Ghandruk. It is obvious that he cares about not only the volunteers working on the conservation project but also about Ghandruk and its communities in general. Likewise, Raj's parents and our cook where absolutely great. Thanks to our cook, I was able to learn the Nepali valuable essentials allowing me to order food and buy the basic things I needed.

 

Raj's mother

Raj's father

Always laughing and working hard at both their tasks and insuring that all was good with us. I don't recall seeing people perpetually such in a good mood and simultaneously working so hard than our hosts. Other people I meet in and around Ghandruk were as nice and I learned a lot from taking the time to talk with them. 

Last but not least, the Guesthouse location could not have been better!

View from the Guesthouse porch

In terms of the project in itself and ProjectsAbroad, sadly, I don't believe I actually did much for the conservation of the environment and the communities. This is a really sad and difficult realization of mine. There is definitively a lack of material resources on site and the volunteers, who pay a high price for their involvement in the project, could certainty be used more efficiently. If the hidden objective of ProjectsAbroad is to attract the greater number of participants in order to collect a great amount of money to be reinvested in the ACAP or directly into the Annapurna region, fair enough. Although, they should advertise a unique Nepali experience for everyone, not a conservation project for individual in search of an actual hands on environmental contribution.

I really hope that in the near future ProjectsAbroad will be able to provide volunteers with a better program that insure that their time and money is actually been use efficiently. ProjectsAbroad also need to do a better job at taking into consideration volunteer's limitations and health issues prior to accepting their application (and money).

Before jumping into the project, I clearly outlined my concerns in regards to the local crew's capability in providing me with gluten free food. To which concern the ProjectsAbroad representative's answer was that the local crew was fully aware of the problem and that there was no problem. In short, ProjectsAbroad placements are not suitable for individual suffering from celiac disease.

I love honey!

Apis Cerana at work

Bees play an important role in any environment as plant pollinators. Within the Ghandruk area (2000-3000 m) the indigenous honeybees of the Himalayas are essential for the maintenance of the region's biodiversity and natural ecosystems. These hard working little friends occupy a key role in the pollination of mountain crops and consequently, contribute to food security and livelihoods of the Ghandruk rural households.

Don't get fooled by the Syrphid, this fly is not a bee!

Regardless their fame, many threats contribute to the dissemination of the domestic honeybees around the world. Although one might think that "mountain bees" would be spared from these potential threats, a similar increase in colony mortality is already observed and now monitored within the ACA region.

Among these threats we observe a slow but steady shift towards monoculture practices. Limiting agriculture to one crop type contributes to loss of floral diversity (and Biodiversity) and is often responsible to increased use of pesticides. In addition to this major threat, increasing access to remote areas by trekkers, sadly, too often goes hand in hand with environmental degradation.

Here in Ghandruk, beekeeping is an integral part of the history of the rural development of the communities by improving food productivity and providing honey, wax and other products for home use and sale. This is particularly true for landless individuals who rely on trading and monetary exchanges to obtain basic necessities.

Ghandruk communities have been in the past and are even today relying on both honey hunting of the Himalayan wild bee's colonies to obtain honey and using log hives to produce honey by domestic or wild bees.

There are four groups of bees in Nepal:

• bumble bees
• sting-less bees
• solitary bees
• honeybees

According to Bahadur Gurung & al. (2012), five species of HONEYBEES are found in the Himalayas:

Little honeybee (Apis florea)

Giant honeybee (Apis dorsata)

Himalyan cliff bee (Apis laboriosa)

Asian / Indigenous hive bee (Apis cerana)

The Little honeybee (Apis florea) can be found in hills and plains at altitudes up to 1,200 m. These bees build single small comb nests under small tree branches or bushes. A colony can produce 1 kg of honey per year.

Their big sister, the Giant honeybee (Apis dorsata) is also fund in hills and plains but at lower altitudes up to 1,000 m. They usually build single large comb nests on the top of tall trees, buildings, or water towers. These big sisters are highly defensive and performs mass attacks. They also produce considerably more honey per year (30-50 kg per colony).

Similar to his cousin Apis dorsata, the Himalayan cliff bee (Apis laboriosa) is darker and more defensive. Not only they build larger single comb nests but also produce considerable more honey per year with an average of 60 kg per colony and prefers nesting on large steep rocky cliff faces.

One of many comb nests found within Ghandruk

The honey produced by the Himalayan cliff bee is highly prized and in Nepal, honey hunting is a vital part of the Nepali culture. However, health of these bee's populations are threatened by human disturbances and resulting habitats degradation. 

Finally, while walking around Ghandruk, one can find tree logs hanging on the side of houses. When the sun shine and temperature rises, all these little workers get down to work. Apis cerana (Asian or indigenous hive bee) is the only bee that can be kept in these hand crafted log hives.

Log hive found on the neighbour's house wall

They differentiate themselves from their cousins by building multiple parallel combs (number depends on the colony size) and by establishing themselves in plains and hills from below 300 m up to 3,400 m.These bees can produce up to 20 kg of honey per hive per year and are resistant to diseases and mites, main culprit of the European honeybee populations dissemination worldwide.

In Ghandruk, the European honeybee (Apis mellifera) was introduced for commercial beekeeping as it builds multiple parallel combs and can be keep in movable frame hives.

Bahadur Gurung, Uma Partap, Nabin CID Shrestha, Harish K Sharma, Nurul Islam, Nar Bahadur Tamang, 2012. Beekeeping Training for Farmers in the Himalaya. Resource Manual for Trainers International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development, Katmandu. 190 p.

Pokhara to Ghandruk

Saturday Oct. 4th 2014

Time to leave Kathmandu jahnu (to go) to Pokhara. An early 6h30 am start + 7h bus ride later we arrived in Pokhara. 

As soon as the bus started climbing the hills surrounding the city, nature's green and endless terracing replaced the densely populated and extremely polluted Kathmandu.

Bus stop

One of the many suspension bridges on the road

Once more, very little time to explore this city as we arrived pretty late and needed to get organized for yet, another early start the next day for our final destination: Ghandruk.

Pokhara lake

Sunday Oct 5th 2014

Around  7 am we trade the comfort of the Middlepath Hotel in Pokhara for a Jeep ride taking us closer to our destination. About 40 km separates Pokhara (820 m) from a location named Birethanti (1025 m).

This is a well travelled and colorful road. A mix of both locals, tourists buses and Jeeps play a cacophony of klaxons and game of who is passing who... pretty interesting...

Trail from Birethanti to Kilu

Trail from Birethanti to Kilu

Birethanti is also the checking point for the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) permits required to use the trail up to Ghandruk.

From Birethanti (1025 m) our chaffeur drive us another 8-10 km "off road" to the village of Kilu (1400 m). 

Village of Kilu

At this point, our bhariyah (porters) meet with us to load themselves with our bags. I do know the feeling of carrying a 20-30 kg backpack as I have done it myself and therefore, I can only admire their strength when observing these little boys/men and girls hiking up under such loads waring not much than flip-flops...

 

Young female bhariyah (porter) & local woman

Other porters...

Some photos on route to Ghandruk... simply sundar (beautiful)!

Also on the trail, one of the swing built for the Dashain Festival...

We were warmly welcome late afternoon in our Ghandruk  Pahhunahghar Guesthouse (2100 m) with our well deserved camenah (lunch)...

NTNC - ACAP

The girls and myself at the entrance of Ghandruk

Kathmandu

October 1st to October 3rd

I MADE IT TO KATHMANDU!

Overview of Katmandu from the Monkey Temple

So in short, I left my place in Lisbon October 1st at 6h30 am and arrived in Kathmandu the following day at 15h35. From the airport I went strait to the Excel Hotel situated in the Thamel area of Kathmandu.

No need to say that after travelling and waiting for so long, Kathmandu was an awakening of all my senses! Really exciting place for which I will need to set some time to explore a little bit more.  

Thamel, Kathmandu

During my short stay Nepalese celebrated the end of one of their most important festival, the Dashain. This is a 15-day-long national festival celebrated by Nepalese people throughout the globe.This festival is also known for its emphasis on the family gatherings, as well as on a renewal of community ties. People return from all parts of the world, as well as different parts of the country, to celebrate together. All government offices, educational institutions and other offices remain closed during the festival period.

Later on I meet 2 staff of Projects Abroad and other volunteers who like me, were about to embark on a fantastic journey... 

Here are some photos of the Monkey Temple we visited the second day....

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu

One of the many inhabitants of the Monkey Temple

Buddhist monks observing the tourists....

Overview of Kathmandu from the Temple

NO more than 1 week left!

First of all, thank you to those of you who have taken the time to communicated your support. It means the world to me as it does to anyone coming out of a really long and difficult process. 

Also, thank you from the bottom of my hart for your contribution to my fundraising campaign. Without your help, this project would not be carried out.

Pretty soon, it will be my turn to give back throughout this journey of mine I am about to embark on. 

 

  There is no need to say how excited I am this last week before my departure! I cannot wait to explore the Annapurna's environments and learn from and about the Nepalese communities.

I am finally ready to go:

ProjectsAbroad Fees = taken care of

Flight Lisbon - Katmandu - Lisbon = got it!

 Medical & Travel Insurance = taken care of

Vaccines & Immunizations = all done!

First Aid Kit = packed

Indian VISA = got it!
Nepal VISA = upon arrival @ 
Katmandu airport

PACKING IT ALL in a 60L backpack 
= mission accomplished!

What is in my backpack?

YOU CAN HELP!

In order to make this project happen, I set up a little Fundraising Campaign. 
You can help simply by clicking here.

THE BIG PICTURE

I need your support to make this project happen.

To make what happen?

Me volunteering and contributing to the enhancement and preservation of the biodiversity of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) along with aiding social development in the nearby villages.

Yes in deed, my voluntary participation requires a considerable investment (Budget details are posted on this blog).

This is a great project providing me with the opportunity to put into practice my skills and knowledge, contribute to a better understanding of these fragile ecosystems (my passion) and ultimately, experience Nepal, which had been on hold since my 2001 accident and recurring health issues.

You can find more about the project directly on Projects Abroad website or by exploring this blog.

WANT MORE FOR YOUR MONEY...

For those who know me, this project might not appears surprising considering the important place mountains occupies in my life. I am still today, not able to identify what is, in mountains, that magnetizes me. Pure, simple and majestic beauty!

What you don't know, is that I had plan this project as a gift to myself upon my 40th birthday (January 2013) and the completion of my second master degree. However, recurring health problems, extended hospitalizations and the associated costs and complications have this project on hold.

Today, I am ready to rock & roll but what is left in my wallet is not sufficient...

Since my 2001 accident, life have rewarded me with enumerable amazing surprises and encounters. I am sincerely grateful for that. On the other hand, I have had invested a great deal in building myself a new life from scratch as a result of my traumatic brain injury related consequences. Acquiring new skills and regaining health and ultimately autonomy, was not a peace of cake, neither cheap ($75K of medical and associated fees).  

However, the joy from the realization of every single achievement remain priceless.

Finally, a few years ago I embarked on a personal quest constituting of filling the missing puzzles of my life by revisiting where, what and who belonged to my previous life, before my brain injury. Throughout this process, I ended up losing myself while searching for who I was. Past was never to be found. However, present is, and remains no matter what.

I love this quote:

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift, which is why we call it the present" William Aloysius Keane

Today, I know who I am and believe I can make a difference by providing this project with my contribution.  I am also conscious of the amazing journey I am bout to embark on. Join me on my blog to explore, exchange and laugh.

Whatever form, color or shape of support you would like to contribute towards the realization of my project, is great, thanks.

DESTINATION NEPAL

It would be inappropriate for me to introduce Nepal to you; as I never personally experience it.

However, what I can share with you, is my desire to explore, live and better understand this very particular environment.

The perception I have of Nepal stemmed from readings, cinematographic landscapes and travelers'tales. About 20 yrs ago, I came upon Alexandra David-Néel works and believe this might had led me to travel do India around 1995. Nepal was to be visited during that trip, but was never materialized.

Parallel to this spiritual quest, a growing desire to explore and understand landscape diversity around the globe seems to have been responsible for my, somehow, nomadic life that followed. Ultimately, studying Physical Geography and later, Environmental Sciences provided me with a better understanding of nature's beauty surroundings and the footprint we generated.