Annapurna Circuit - part 1

I have been pretty much motionless since early 2013 after spending 2 months in the hospital and later on, damaging my knee LCL. Good news is, the Conservation Project I was involved with happen to be a good continuity in order to regain my mobility. Living and hiking above 2000m on a daily-base throughout the project was definitively beneficial for my legs and mind to regain some strength. Therefore, I could envision exploring or, at least, get a taste of those appealing mountains surrounding Ghandruk.

I set the achievable goal of completing the Annapurna Circuit trek, and therefore get a better look at those beautiful mountains. This trek is accessible to all as it doesn't require any technical skills and trekkers can find food and/or lodging on trek every hour or two. This circuit remains affordable compare to other treks; only the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) Single Entry and Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS) permits (2 x 20 USD) are required for this trek. I managed to pay 100 NRP / night for a room with attached toilet and shower although for food it is another story as prices increase proportionally with altitude.

Annapurna Circuit Map

This is definitely a must do!

From Pokhara one can already enjoy the sight of Annapurna I (8091m) and Machhapuchhare (Fish Tail Peak, 6997m). Although to the north of the massive bulk of the Annapurna is a valley system that leads to Tibet through the villages of Naar and Phu as well as the Mustang region. Unfortunately, the Tourism Bureau would not provide me with a permit for these two areas without a group and guide... 

Tal to Tilicho Lake Map

These two trekking areas have been added to my to do list.

 

I highly suggest to take the local bus to immerse oneself into local's folklore (leaving any security consideration behind). Public bus in Nepal are cheaper than food and pretty entertaining. So after my share of cultural immersion between Pokhara and Besisahar, I started my trek from Ngadi (about 1h bus ride north from Besisahar) without much

expectations and with limited time.

After overcoming the choc of the impressive dam and adjacent road (by and for the Chinese) in the middle of this semi wilderness, I quickly fund myself hiking throughout luxurious vegetation, terraces and villages.

The trail follows the east bank of the Marsyangdi Khola (river) from this point.

Colorful & welcoming Chamche's Guesthouse

While engaging into this journey, one can indulge unique fauna and flora but also witness the day-to-day life-style of the communities occupying the region.

Little adorable friends in Ghermu

Passing by a school between Germu to Tal; 
these kids will do anything do get something out of you! :)

What I find the most interesting is the never ending variety of landscapes. From luxurious forest to arid tundra, through hanging bridges and well-maintained trails, by Hindu Temples

and Buddhist Stupas and prayer wheels....

One of the many suspension bridges...

I believe this one is color blind!

Shepherd at work ;)

Prayer wheels

While appreciating every moment of my journey, I could however capture some environmental threats and/or consequences of this Eco-touristic practice in the region. An important portion of the forest cover is no more due to, what looks like, forest fire and intense logging I believe for the construction of hotel/housing accommodations, and fuel wood for cooking and heating.
 

Making of wooden boards

Eco-friendly transportation of wooden boards – just kidding ;)

And again, the journey continues with more breathtaking views and surprising findings. In Bhratang trekkers can satisfy their sweet craving with apple pie or fresh apples as Gala and Red delicious where introduced about 50 yrs ago. I also learned from the owner that the current orchards were about to be replaced by a new variety from Holland in order to increase both apple size and productivity. 

Fascinating!
 

Cross-generational exchanges

 

Time to get up in Chame for another great hiking day!

Past Bhratang the trail climbs to Timang and then continues through a section of gorgeous pine and fir forest. Further up, Lower and Upper Pisang (3310 m) are found on both banks of the Marsyangdi Khola in a much more arid environment.

Lower & Upper Pisang from the Pisang Peak Base Camp (4000m)

 
From Pisang it is definitely worth the effort of hiking what they call the high route (north of the Marsyangdi Khola). The mountain views on the on the upper trail via Ghyaru and Ngawal (3660m) are breathtaking and this effort also pays in terms of acclimatisation.
 

To provide kids with coloring crayons rather than sweets or money is, in my opinion, a good idea.

 

Prayer Wheels

Simply magical!