Tuesday, January 6, 2015

Annapurna Circuit - part 2

Although the trail led to Manang (3540m) I decided to finish the day in the quieter and picturesque village of Bragha / Bhraka (3470m).
 
What to do around Bragha...

On the way to Buddhist Monastery above Munchi
On the way to the Ice Lake

The alpine biome found between the river bed where Bragha (3540m) is found and up to the Ice Lake (4600m) is a tough place for plants to live. It’s windy, cold, and the sunlight at these high altitudes is very strong. Because of the harsh weather, most plants are small groundcover plants, which grow and reproduce slowly. When plants die the cold weather
makes it hard for them to decompose quickly reducing available nutrients for new growing plants...
 

Anyhow, my observation is that trampling and overgrazing by the numerous yaks and wood fuel used by shepherds is leaving a permanent footprint. Hopefully, the demand for yak jerky and cheese will not increase unreasonably in the near future, and as a result further deteriorating this fragile environment...
 

What is left of the vegetation on the way to the Ice Lake


Yakidiyak


Awakening of Manang



Difficult to get lost!

With the Pisang Peak Base Camp (4000m) and the Ice Lake (4600m) under my belt I felt acclimatized enough to set for Thorung La pass (5416m). From Bragha I hiked to the Thorung High Camp for the night. Another great day with very little traffic but nonetheless some interesting action.
 

Below the High Camp was a steep and slippery section of old frozen snow. Two porters ahead of me were desperately trying to haul a mountain bike wearing city shoes. For a few
seconds, the image of two young boys holding an expensive bike, and flying by me crossed my mind. This would certainly be the deadliest tobogganing of their life! I rapidly made my
way through the knee deep soft snow and grabbed the first boy by the wrist. I hauled both of them all the way to the High Camp.
 

I am aware that hiring porters and/or guides without intermediate might sound more profitable for both parties but I do wounder who ends up paying for the injured when incapable of working and/or the family when death occurs?

The following day was quite chaotic. It felt like climbing the Mont Blanc on the busiest European holiday! At least the suffering (waiting behind the endless queues) was not to long, and soon enough, I was enjoying the sun over the pass.
 

The proof that I made it!
 From Thorung La pass 1600m of steep descent to Muktinath (3800m) awaits every single trekker. The views are absolutely incredible!



Muktinath is both a dusty, far-west-like village, and an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus alike. They come from all over India using the Naya Pul to Jomsom road or by flying to the Jomsom airport.
 

One bell per wish



 



View from Jhong village – on the way to Kagbeni (2840m)

From Kagbeni one can head towards the Mustang area or south towards Jomsom. The airport and road portion of Jomsom is also a major trail junction for routes to the Dhaulagiri and Dolpo regions. Let's be honest, Jomsom is not nice but hikers can find everything they need here.
 

Looking at the Mustang entry from Kagbeni

Towards Jomsom and Naya Pul

If time and energy remain, the trek from Jomsom to Naya Pul via the new trail settled up by ACAP (to avoid the road) is simply spectacular. Every single village has is own charm. The western-like environment transforms itself into luxurious and diverse vegetation, temperature rises and food prices drop.




 



Trekkers reaching Tatopani can take the time to recover while soaking in the nice Hot Springs. Further south, the Poon Hill sunset is also a must do. Simply set your alarm clock one hour before sunset and follow the crowds. 


The journey only finishes when back in Pockara after embarking a public bus in Naya Pul. Few hours later one can enjoy a nice diner at the Lake side Pokhara...

THE END ;)

2 comments:

  1. Bravo!
    Tes photos sont superbes! tes commentaires encore plus intéressants!
    xx

    ReplyDelete
  2. Heureuse que les commentaires te plaisent. Les paysages sont extraordinaires, il est par conséquent facile de faire de belles photos.

    ReplyDelete