Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Traditions - part 2

Ghandruk is divided into sections within each a Misrom Bareh Temple can be fund.

Inside of the Temple

View from outside the Temple
The story says that one orphan was once upon a time adopted by gods. After living with them for a while, he returned to Earth to continue his life. Although, the gods advise him not to talk and/or get close to woman as he would looses all his powers. One day, he obviously did not resist the temptation and fell in love. They married and the man lost all his powers. 

This is why in each of these temples women are not allowed inside...

Gate to the Tea Garden

This Temple overlooks a beautiful Tea Garden which provide kalho ciyah (black tea) for locals and a beautiful scenery for hikers....

Tea plantation overlooking old Ghandruk

Indigenous flowers

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Traditions

In regards to provisioning supplies, Ghandruk still relies on porters and horses to bring the goods by foot between Kilu (end of the Jeep trail) and Ghandruk.

Porter greeting a little girl


They carry pretty much anything in those big baskets including our backpacks... 

Here how to built a bamboo basket:











During October and November there is a lot of traffic on the path to Ghandruk as this is the best time to hike throughout the Annapurna. One can cross path with horses, porters, hikers and lately, numerous herds of goats.
Lots of traffic on the path...
Although, the reason behind fattening these goats is the upcoming Tihar (also named Diwali) Festival during which goat meet will be fund in almost all the plates...



Monday, October 20, 2014

Herpetological Monitoring

For putali (butterfly) monitoring we built up 
2 butterfly bait traps.

Raj installing the butterfly trap

Banana bait for the butterfly trap

Pitfall traps with drift fences are widely used for trapping amphibians and reptiles in terrestrial habitats. Pitfall traps are generally round or square containers (cans or plastic buckets) of varying sizes, that are placed in the ground with the tops flush with the surface of the soil. Drift fences serve to divert the animals into the traps.

 
Digging pit holes for the buckets


Installing the drift fence

Voilà!
This is not easy but I am trying...
Snake: sarpa
Cobra: goman
Frog: bhyahguto
Butterfly: putali

Dog: kukur
Cat: birahlo
Leopard: cituwah
Bear: bhahlu

Thursday, October 16, 2014

I am alive and fine ;)

I am alive and no one in Ghandruk was injured or directly suffered from the avalanche. We just received the news today as the power and internet connection have returned. So BBC posted that a blizzard and several avalanches in the Himalayas in central Nepal are reported to have killed at least 26 trekkers and three farmers.

From what I fund on internet, the avalanche seem to have strucked the Thorong La pass located on the well-traveled Annapurna Circuit. This part of the hiking trail is located north of Ghandruk.

Annapurna Circuit map w/ avalanche & Ghandruk locations

The only repercussions that have effected us here in Ghandruk were 32h of non-stop tropical rain causing power cuts and an important mud slide on a section of the off-road trail leading to Ghandruk.

What I do find interesting is the fact that barely no one talks about the deaths and important damages India and Japan suffered following both the Typhoon Vongfong and Cyclone Hudhud. These are at the source of the sudden change in weather and heavy precipitations responsible for the avalanche observe in Nepal.

abc NEWS reported that the powerful cyclone that slammed into India's eastern seaboard left at least eight dead in its wake. 

In another storm lashing Asia, Typhoon Vongfong was downgraded to tropical storm as it hit the Japanese island of Kyushu after battering the southern island of Okinawa. At least 37 people were injured, and authorities advised 150,000 people to evacuate. 

In India, Cyclone Hudhud is responsable for a total death toll of eight, five in Andra Pradesh state and three in Orissa state, mostly caused by wall collapses and falling trees, Indian officials said.

At least 400,000 people were evacuated from the coastal areas of Andhra Pradesh and Orissa states ahead of the storm, and hundreds of shelters were set up to house them. Visakhapatnam, one of the largest cities in southern India and a major naval base, was bearing the brunt of the cyclone's fury.



Monday, October 13, 2014

Nepali 101


The team dressed up with Gurung traditional clothing.

Our cook "djamuna" does not speak English... therefore, I have been trying to learn some Nepali basic words. Far from easy this language is pretty complex including various polite forms and different ways of saying the same things, similar to German.. 


NEPALI 101


Yes: ho / cha / huncha or hajur
No: hoina / chaina / hundaina

This: yo

Hello and Goodbuy: namaste or namaskar (polite form)
I'm sorry: mahph garnuhos
Thank you: dhanyabahd
You're wellcome: swahgatcha

How are you?: tapailai kasto cha? or Ke cha?
I'm fine and you?: malai sancai cha ani tapailai?
Ok / Not bad: thik cha (chu) or huncha (polite form) / thikai cha.
What's your name?: tapaiko nahm ke ho?
My name is nivea.: mero nahm nivea ho.

Toilet paper: twailet pepar ;)
Hot water: tahto pahni.
Bottle water: pahniko botal.
Back tea / coffee: haklo ciyah / kaphi.
Ginger lemon tea: aduwah kangati ciyah.
Please give me (a)... "use for: can I have a black tea please?": malai kahlo ciyan.
Without milk / bread / wheat:  dudh / roti / gahu / nahahleko.
I don't eat wheat.: ma gahu khahndina

SUBJECT PRONOUNS
I / We: ma / hahmiharu
You / You (polite form): timi / timiharu
You (polite form) / You (polite plural): tapai / tapaiharu
He - She / They (living object): uni / uniharu
He - She - It / They (non living object: tyo (inani) / ti or yi (inani)
He - She / They (polite form): wahah / wahahharu

0: sunya
1: ek
2: tin
3: dui
4: cahr
5:  pahc
6: cha
7: saht
8: ahth
9: nau
10: das

How much is this?: Kati ho?
What?: Ke?
That's expensive!: mahago cha!

Mountain: pahahd
Trail: goreto / sahnobahto

Mother: ahmah
Father: buwah
Elder sister / brother: didi / dai
Younger sister / brother: bahini / bhai

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Cobra hunt

Wednesday- Thursday Oct 8-9, 2014


On Wednesday we hike down to Kimchi in order to join our herpetologist (amphibians and reptiles specialist) with the aim to locate and capture a King Cobra on the loose...

The team on the mission...

Some residents have seen it and are getting concern about such a big snake in the surroundings. The snake skin was fund near its den.

King Cobra skin
We spent 2 days observing and searching an area where the goman (cobra) was last seen.

Our Herpetologist on the hunt...

At the end, we did not captured the beast but while collecting some residents accounts we were welcomed to one resident's house for a cup of kahlo ceyah (black tea) and enjoyed a mitho (delicious) dahl bhaht (Nepal's nat'l dish: lentils, rice and vegetable curry).

Our host's house for tea time

Tea House
At the end, we did not leave with empty hands; a frog was fund and added to the inventory.

Frog in a glass


Everything about Mr Frog....









Thursday, October 9, 2014

Ghandruk

Monday Oct 06, 2014

Namaste Ghandruk!

View from ours bedrooms

On the previous day we hiked under the scorching sun from Kilu (1400 m) to our Ghandruk pahhunahghar Guesthouse (2100 m).

Map found at the Ghandruk Museum

Today, we hike 500 m of elevation to install some cameras for wildlife data collection to determine what species are currently surviving within close proximity to agricultural activities and human encroachment through natural resources collection and also help determine what species are common within the area. We also need to download recorded data and recharge the batteries now and then.


Ours Conservation Project Supervisor and Ornithologist installing a camera

The most exciting part of the day was to be able to observe a young Common Leopard that was rescued after being abandoned by his mother. The animal was relocated in order to reassure the inhabitants and receive necessary care.

Jack and Sacha

The footage captured by the cameras show diverse species among which we fund the Himalayan black bear (Himali kalo bhalu) which also need to be relocated due to potentials conflicts with human and livestock.

At diner time, we celebrated one volunteer's birthday at the German bakery (I guess it is named that way because it sells apple pies, croissants... but it is in fact owned by a Nepalese local). Ironically, the guy we celebrated is "québécois"!


Annapurna south
Macchapucchre


Tuesday Oct 07, 2014

Projects Abroad helps ACAP by providing updated data on various species of mammals, birds, amphibians...

In the morning, we started our bird identification training to be able to help conduct an inventory from collecting data at numerous fixed point bird hides within 5 km radius of Ghandruk. These data help gain knowledge of what species are present in the Ghandruk area and for further work to study migratory patterns.

In the afternoon, we went to a bird observation location of the Himalayan swiflet and Nepal house martin. I was not able to capture any of these fast flying birds on my camera.

On route to the bird observation location

We also contribute to seed dispersal ;)

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Pokhara to Ghandruk

Saturday Oct. 4th 2014

Time to leave Kathmandu jahnu (to go) to Pokhara. An early 6h30 am start + 7h bus ride later we arrived in Pokhara. 

As soon as the bus started climbing the hills surrounding the city, nature's green and endless terracing replaced the densely populated and extremely polluted Kathmandu.


Bus stop



One of the many suspension bridges on the road

Once more, very little time to explore this city as we arrived pretty late and needed to get organized for yet, another early start the next day for our final destination: Ghandruk.


Pokhara lake

Sunday Oct 5th 2014

Around  7 am we trade the comfort of the Middlepath Hotel in Pokhara for a Jeep ride taking us closer to our destination. About 40 km separates Pokhara (820 m) from a location named Birethanti (1025 m).

This is a well travelled and colorful road. A mix of both locals, tourists buses and Jeeps play a cacophony of klaxons and game of who is passing who... pretty interesting...

Trail from Birethanti to Kilu




Trail from Birethanti to Kilu



Birethanti is also the checking point for the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) permits required to use the trail up to Ghandruk.

From Birethanti (1025 m) our chaffeur drive us another 8-10 km "off road" to the village of Kilu (1400 m). 

Village of Kilu



At this point, our bhariyah (porters) meet with us to load themselves with our bags. I do know the feeling of carrying a 20-30 kg backpack as I have done it myself and therefore, I can only admire their strength when observing these little boys/men and girls hiking up under such loads waring not much than flip-flops...

 
Young female bhariyah (porter) & local woman


Other porters...


Some photos on route to Ghandruk... simply sundar (beautiful)!




Also on the trail, one of the swing built for the Dashain Festival...


We were warmly welcome late afternoon in our Ghandruk  Pahhunahghar Guesthouse (2100 m) with our well deserved camenah (lunch)...

NTNC - ACAP

The girls and myself at the entrance of Ghandruk

Monday, October 6, 2014

Kathmandu

October 1st to October 3rd

I MADE IT TO KATHMANDU!

Overview of Katmandu from the Monkey Temple

So in short, I left my place in Lisbon October 1st at 6h30 am and arrived in Kathmandu the following day at 15h35. From the airport I went strait to the Excel Hotel situated in the Thamel area of Kathmandu.

No need to say that after travelling and waiting for so long, Kathmandu was an awakening of all my senses! Really exciting place for which I will need to set some time to explore a little bit more.  

Thamel, Kathmandu

During my short stay Nepalese celebrated the end of one of their most important festival, the Dashain. This is a 15-day-long national festival celebrated by Nepalese people throughout the globe.This festival is also known for its emphasis on the family gatherings, as well as on a renewal of community ties. People return from all parts of the world, as well as different parts of the country, to celebrate together. All government offices, educational institutions and other offices remain closed during the festival period.

Later on I meet 2 staff of Projects Abroad and other volunteers who like me, were about to embark on a fantastic journey... 


Here are some photos of the Monkey Temple we visited the second day....

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu


One of the many inhabitants of the Monkey Temple
Buddhist monks observing the tourists....
Overview of Kathmandu from the Temple